Fall 2013 Menswear: Richard Nicoll
125 Magazine | January 2013
Following on the heels of his hit menswear collection last season, Richard Nicoll’s vision of the “modern uniform” was a cross between post-punk rocker and blue-collar worker. The models marched as if they were en route to start their shift at the factory, as if heeding the call of the thumping bass. It was every bit as exacting as only Nicoll would only have it. And yet, the shapes were more relaxed from last season. There were all the wardrobe staples in the finest of fabrications: angora jumpers, neat wool suits and trousers in brushed cotton canvas in a spectrum of hazy grey, navy blue and white shades. Bolts of orange and silver, along with a paint-splattered print, were incorporated to enliven the otherwise sombre palette. The loose trousers with belt chains, motorcycle jacket, and all-in-ones were no more inspired by the “no-wave rebellion” as it was by Nicoll’s own dress sense.
The designer, whose approach to design is often associated with the words “pragmatic” and “urbane,” stayed true to his usual method. The collection’s shortcomings lay not with the execution; it was the interpretation. Inspiration like “brutalist architecture” makes for strong, outspoken design. But in this case, it was but an inaudible whisper.